četrtek, 19. september 2013

Mig-21M Eduard 1/48 (Part 6)

Mig-21M
Jugoslovansko vojno letalstvo, št. 805 - Yugoslav Air Force
Eduard 1:48


 


 
6. SESTAVLJANJE TRUPA - Body assembly

Pod sestavljanjem trupa razumemo najprej kot vgradnjo posameznih sklopov v eno polovico trupa in nato spajanje obeh polovic trupa (A1, A18)

 
Vsi deli ali sklopi potrebujejo pri vgradnji malo prilagajanja (brušenja) in dodelav.

All parts need adjustments (grinding) and modifications before assembly.

6.1. Priprava obeh polovic trupa A1, A18 - Body preparations A1, A18

Ker bo pokrov kabine v odprtem položaju, bo tudi varnostna kljuka za njegovo odpiranje izven ležišča in obrnjena navzdol. Zato ležišče tik pod vetrobranskim steklom izdolbemo.

Because cockpit will be opened, that means that security handle and it's opening will be outside of the locking and turned downside. The locking right beneath the windshield must be carved in. 




Rob kabine na obeh polovicah trupa je preozek, še posebej če nameravamo namestiti tesnilni rob (PE2, PE3, PE7, PE8).

The edge of the cockpit on the both sides of the body is too thin, especially if we're planing to install the sealing edge (PE2, PE3, PE7, PE8).

 
Rob kabine zato razširimo s tanko plastiko.

We must to widen the edge of cabin with a thin plastic.



 
Stene obeh polovic trupa na zadnjem koncu v izpuhu so predebele. Zadnji rob izpuha stanjšamo kolikor je mogoče.

The walls on both sides of the body (back of the exhaust V) are to thick. It's recommended to thin the edges as much as possible.
 





Ker bomo na trup vgradili tudi jedkane dele ki zahtevajo poglobitev v plastiko, to storimo že sedaj.

Because we're going to install PE parts into the body, is recommended to deep'em down into the plastic right now.



 
 
Ker je Eduardova maketa kasnejša verzija Mig-a MF, mi pa delamo verzijo M, moramo drugi detajl takoj pod kabino pomakniti na prvo servisno oplato.  

The Eduards model is a late verison of the Mig MF, we're making the version M, so we need to move the second detail beneath the body on the first service plate.


6.2 Priprava nosnega konusa (D80) - Preparation of the nose conus (D80)

Konico nosnega konusa izostrimo. Stik dielektričnega dela konusa (zelene barve) in kovinskega okrova poglobimo z gravirno iglo.

We must sharpen the edge of the nose conus. A contact of dielectric part of the conus (green color) and a metal housing must be deepend with and engraving needle.

 
Konus pobarvamo z Revellovo barvo SM363, kovinski okrov pa z Burnt Metal Metalizer (model Master). Vsi jugoslovanski Mig-i verzije M in MF so imeli rumeno konico konusa.

We paint the conus with a revell color SM363, the metal housing with a Burnt Metal Metalizer (Model master). All yugoslavian MIG version M and MF had a yellow end of the conus.  






6.3. Priprava grbe - hrbtnega rezervoarja (H1) - Preparation of the back tank (H1)

Del H1 pripravimo že sedaj, ker ga bomo potrebovali med vgradnjo zadnje stene kabine.

Part H1 must be prepared now, because we're going to need it before the installation of the back wall of the cockpit.


Spodnji rob na delu H1 posnamemo (samo na zunanji strani) začenši od sprednje oplate kjer je elektronika pa do konca rezervoarja.

Lower edge on the part H1 must be cut off (only on the outside) from the first plate where are the electronics, till the end of the tank.

 
Del H1 ima na vsaki strani dve manjši servisni oplati za kateri bomo uporabili jedkane dele. Zato moramo ležišči za ti oplati poglobiti.

Part H1 has a service plate on the both sides, for wich we're going to install the PA parts. We need to deepend the final position of this plates.
 







Zelo primerno orodje za dolbenje ali tanjšanje plastike je kirurški skalpel št.15.

The perfect tool for thickening and thining plastic is a surgeon scalpel No15. 





6.4. Priprava repnih površin (H2, H6) - Preparation of the tail surfaces (H2, H6)

Ker je Eduardova maketa kasnejša verzija Mig-a MF moramo za verzijo M na levi strani repa (H6) vgravirati manjšo servisno oplato, ki tudi ni točno na istem mestu.

Because the Eduards model is a late version of MF, we must for M version install a smal service plate, on the left side of the tail (H6) and on a little different position.

 




Na desni strani repa (H2) pa moramo na na njegovem osrednjem delu eno panelno linijo zakitati, ker je na tem mestu ena sama oplata in ne dve.

On the right side of the wing (H2) we are forced to fill the panel line with the putty, because on this place must be only one plate instead of two.  





6.5. Vgradnja - Instalation

Najprej vgradimo obe centralni rebri (C3, C48), nato motor in zatem še nosni konus.

First we must install both central ribs (C3,C48), then the engine and after that a nose conus.


 
Pri vgrajevanju kabinskega dela, zadnje stene kabine in sprednjega kolesnega prostora pa lahko nastopijo težave.
Pri nameščanju kabinskega dela v trup nam mora biti kot merilo zgornji rob stranice kabinskega dela, ki mora priti točno pod razširjeni rob kabine na trupu. Nadalje sta obe stranici kabinskega dela pomaknjeni navzven (nista pravokotno na dno kabine) in ko namestimo instrumentno ploščo nam na vsaki strani zeva 1mm široka špranja (zelena puščica).

At installation of canopy, back walls of the cockpit and front wheels room, we can have some problems. At installation of the cockpit into the body, we must be carefull that a top edge of one side of the cockipit fits right beneath the thickened edge of the cockpit. Further, both side of the cockpit part must be moved aside (not vertically on the bottom of the cockpit) and when we install an instrument board, we have a 1mm wide gap on each side (see green arrow).


Ker je potrebno kar nekaj moči, da stranici potisnemo proti instrumentni plošči, pred kabino nalepimo plastični plošči ki bosta olajšali leplenje obeh polovic trupa.

Because it's very hard to put together the sides to instrumnt board, we're forced to glue some small styrene parts, wich they'll strentghen the gluing proccess of the body.



 

Če zadnjo steno (R9) spodaj odrežemo kot je označeno, se lahko zgodi da jo odrežemo 1mm preveč (rdeča puščica). Merilo kako visoko moramo zalepiti zadnjo steno, sta oba polkrožna izrastka na drugi strani stene, ki se morata ujemati z zgornjo krivino trupa.

If we cut the back wall (R9) like is marked, it may happen that we cut it 1mm to much (red arrow). To help ourselves, how high we must glue the wall, we can orientate with a half-circled plastic on the other side of the wall, wich they must fith with an upper bound.


 Kabinski del in zadnjo steno lepimo hkrati. Uporabimo dvokomponentno lepilo ker potrebujemo čas za pravilno nameščanje. Ko smo se prepričali da je vse na pravem mestu, stike kabinskega dela in zadnje stene s trupom še dodatno utrdimo z dvokomponentnim lepilom.

The cockpit part and the back wall can be glued at the same time. For that we use 2-component glue, because it takes time for the right adjustment. When we're sure that everything is in place, we glue the joints of the cockpit and the back wall once again, so that everything holds together perfectly.

 
Ko namestimo katapultni sedež v kabino, ugotovimo da je sedež za okoli 2mm prenizko. Zgornji del katapultnega sedeža (naslonjalo za glavo) bi moral segati skoraj do vrha zadnje stene kabine.

When we install the cataput seat into the cockpit we can see that the seat is 2mm too low. Upper part of the catapult seat (headrest) shoul reach the top of the cockpit.

 
Zato pod sedež nalepimo plastiko ustrezne debeline, da bo višina sedeža prava.

The best solution for that is to glue the plastic beneath, to get the perfect height of the seat.
 





Sledi vgradnja kolesnega prostora. Po navodilih naj bi plošča kolesnega prostora sedla na dva izrastka na kabinskem delu.

Next step is installing the wheels room. Instructions says that the board of the wheels room should be glued on the two plastic bits on the cockpit part.

 
Vendar nam mora biti vodilo ležišče na obeh polovicah trupa, pa bo kolesni prostor na pravem mestu.

But the bits should be on the both halves of the body in order to glue them on the right place.

 
Sedaj lahko zlepimo obe polovici trupa.

Now we can glue together both sides of the body.






 

7. Spajanje trupa in sklopa B3 - drugič - Joining together the body on B3 Section.

V tej fazi zlepimo celoten sklop B3 s trupom. Potrebno je paziti da je sprednji stik teh dveh sklopov čim lepši. Pravo letalo na tem mestu nima nobene panelne linije, trup je povsem gladek, zato moramo doseči, da bo či manj kitanja.

In this phase we'll glue an entire part B3 with the body. When gluing together the front joint, we must be carefull how we glue together this both sections. The real plane doesn't have any panel line on this place, the body must be real soft and polished so that we don't need to apply a lot of the putty.


 
Nasprotno si na zadnji strani lahko privoščimo slabši stik na račun sprednjega stika, če že ne gre drugače.

On the other side we can afford this on the back side if necessary.

 
Sedaj lahko prilepimo grbo H1 in sprednji servisni oplati (A3 in A17). Preden prilepimo oplato A17 jo je potrebno pomeriti na trup skupaj z vetrobranskim steklom. Vsak del zase se namreč odlično prilega na trup, če pa sta oba hkrati pane. Potrebno je malo brušenja na oplati.

Now we can glue the hib H1 and front service plates (A3 and A17). Before we glue A17, it's necessary to messure it with the body along with the windshield. Each part fits perfectly on the body if both sides are together. The plates don't require a lot of grinding.



 
Na sprednjem koncu stika med oplato A17 in trupom je prevelika reža, zato na notranji strani dodamo malo kita (glej puščico).

On the front end of the plate A17 and the body, there's a really big gap which we need to fill with putty (Watch the arrow).

 





Kompletna delavnica (Detailed Workshop here):